Free Crochet Pattern and Tutorial: Amigurumi Teddy Bear – Craft Your Own Cuddly Companion
Embrace the cozy world of crochet with our amigurumi free pattern and tutorial for crafting an adorable amigurumi teddy bear! Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, this project is perfect for bringing a touch of warmth and nostalgia into your crafting repertoire. With its soft yarn and simple stitches, this teddy bear is as cuddly as it is charming. Follow along with our step-by-step tutorial to create your own lovable companion and add a dash of sweetness to your crochet collection.
MATERİALS
Bear knitted from Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (wool 40%, acrylic 60%)
At 100g-480m
Hook 1.25.
The bear is knitted with one piece from the feet to the crown.
Be sure to use the frame to keep the toy
the shape, and most importantly the head, because the bear’s neck is very thin.
Abbreviations:
SC – single crochet
İNC – increase
DEC – decrease
CH – chain
PATTERN
FEET BODY
We start knitting with the legs. The marker passes strictly behind the leg.
Left foot
9 ch
We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.
1p-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain
6sc, inc = 18p
2p-inc, 6sc, incx3,6sc, incx2 = 24p
3p-1sc, inc, 6HDC., (1sc, inc) x3.6HDC., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30p
4p-inc, 4HDC., 8DC., IncDCx3., 8DC., 4HDC., Inc x2 = 36p
5p-7p -36sc (3 rows)
8p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p
9p-30sc
10р- (3sc, dec) х6 = 24п + 1shift loop
11p-3sc, (1sc, dec) x6., 3sc, = 18p
Start stuffing your foot. Stuff the sock is not strong, there will be shorts
for fingers.
Now cut a piece of wire (I have 35cm) to make a loop, insert it into
foot and around the wire still knock padding.
12p-3sc, decx6., 3sc, = 12p
13p-17p-12sc (5 rows)
18p-10sc, 2sc leave, do not tie to the end of the row.
When we connect with the right foot, then these two loops will be the first
loops.
We tear off the thread. To fill.
Right foot
9 ch
We start knitting in the second loop of the chain.
1p-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain
6sc, inc = 18p
2p-inc, 6sc, incx3,6sc, incx2 = 24p
3p-1sc, inc, 6HDC., (1sc, inc) x3.6HDC., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30p
4p-inc, 4HDC., 8DC., IncDCx3., 8DC., 4HDC., Inc x2 = 36p
5p-7p -36sc (3 rows)
8p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p
9p-30sc
10р- (3sc, dec) х6 = 24п + 1shift loop
11p-3sc, (1sc, dec) x6., 3sc, = 18p
Start stuffing your foot. Stuff the sock is not strong, there will be shorts
for fingers.
Now cut a piece of wire (I have 35cm) to make a loop, insert it into
foot and around the wire still knock padding.
12p-3sc, decx6., 3sc, = 12p
13r-18r-12sc (6 rows) make 2 offset loops
To fill.
Do not tear off the thread, continue knitting.
Next, we will connect the legs between each other and into the body.
Body.
19p- 3sc on the right foot, 6 ch, now we take the left foot and begin
knitting from the remaining non-knit stitches 12sc on the left leg,
6sc on ch., 9sc on the right leg.
20p- 3sc, 6sc by ch., 3sc, (inc, 1sc) x3., 12sc- (3sc on the left
leg + 6sc in the chain of ch., + 3sc in the right leg = 12sc).,
(1sc, inc) x3 = 42p
After 20 rows, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind.
About the wire. Twist the two wires from the legs together, but
twist only the length of the body plus the neck, in the head two wires should
to be separate.
21p-22p-42sc (2 rows)
23p-4sc, inc x6., (Increase for priests), 12sc, (inc, 1sc) x6., (Increase for
tummy), 8sc = 54p
24r-26r-54sc (3 rows)
27p- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60p
28p-60sc
29p-5sc, inc, (9sc, inc) x5.4sc = 66p
30r-37r-66sc (8 rows)
38p-40sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 8sc = 60p decrease in the middle of the tummy
39p-60sc
40p-35sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 7sc = 54p decrease in the middle of the tummy
41r-43r-54sc (3 rows)
44p- (3sc, dec) x6., 24sc = 48p
We begin to fill the body and further, as the body knits, continue
stuffing.
45r-46r- 48sc
47p- (6sc, dec) x6 = 42p
48p-42sc
49p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p
50p-36sc
51p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p
52p-30sc
53p- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p
54p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p
55r-18sc fill to the end
Neck.
56p-decx9 = 9p
57p-58p-9sc (2 rows)
We turn to knitting the head.
Head.
59p-inc x9 = 18p.
60p- (2sc, inc) x6 = 24p.
61p- (3sc, inc) x6 = 30p.
62p- (4sc, inc) x6 = 36p.
63p- (5sc, inc) x6 = 42p.
64p- (6sc, inc) x6 = 48p.
65p- (7sc, inc) x6 = 54p.
66p- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60p.
67p- (9sc, inc) x6 = 66p.
68p- (10sc, inc) x6 = 72p.
69p- (11sc, inc) x6 = 78p.
70p- (12sc, inc) x6 = 84p.
71r-78r-84sc (8 rows)
From a wire, make such a structure as in the photo, this is for stability
teddy bear heads. The head is big on a thin neck. Will also help
bend your head to the sides.
From this moment, you can gradually and gently fill your head.
The wire should not touch the head, but be inside it. And around
wire stuffing.
It’s better to start stuffing in small lumps, so that gradually
fill the entire head space.
79p-6sc, dec, (12sc, dec) x5., 6sc = 78p.
80p-78sc
81p- (11sc, dec) x6 = 72p.
82p-72sc
83p-5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) x5., 5sc = 66p.
84p-66sc
85p- (9sc, dec) x6 = 60p.
86p-60sc
87p-4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) x5., 4sc = 54p.
88p-54sc
89p- (7sc, dec) x6 = 48p.
90p-48sc
91p-3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x5., 3sc = 42p.
92p-42sc
93p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p.
94p-2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x5., 2sc = 30p.
95r- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p.
96p-1sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x5., 1sc = 18p.
97r- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p.
98p-dec * 6.
Hands. (2 parts)
1p-6sc into magic ring
2p-incx6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5r-8r- 24sc (4 rows)
9p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p
10r-11r- 18sc (2 rows)
12p- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p Fill your hand, but very weak, so that later you can
was to pull her fingers.
13p-30p- 12sc (18 rows)
Now we need to cut a piece of wire so that it sticks out from the handle by 1.5-2 cm
longer
but insert the wire only after pulling the fingers.
Flatten your palm and embroider two finger stitches,
pulling a little. Fill the handle a little bit.
Muzzle.
(from finishing yarn)
3 ch
We knit in rotary rows, at the end of each row do ch
We start with the second loop of the chain
1p-incx2 = 4sc ch rotation
2p-inc, 2sc, inc = 6sc ch rotation
3p-inc, 4sc, inc = 8sc ch rotation
4p-inc, 6sc, inc = 10sc ch rotation
5p-inc, 8sc, inc = 12sc ch rotation
6p-inc, 10sc, inc = 14sc ch rotation
7p-16p- 14sc (10 rows) ch turn
17p-dec, 10sc, dec = 12sc ch rotation
18p-dec, 8sc, dec = 10sc ch rotation
19p-dec, 6sc, dec = 8sc ch rotation
20p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc ch rotation
21p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc ch rotation
22p-decx2 = 2sc without turning,
tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of sc
The ears. (2 parts)
1p-6sc into magic ring
2p-incx6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p
6r-9r- 30sc (4 rows)
Fold the ear in half and the lower edge in two layers, tie 15sc
Inner ear.
(from finishing yarn) 2 parts.
9 ch
We knit in rotary rows, at the end of the row do ch
We start knitting with the second loop of the chain.
1p-3p-8sc, (3 rows) ch turn
4p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc ch rotation
5p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc break the thread
Sew the eyelet carefully into the main ear.
Inside, the eyelet can be cut out of fabric.
Lining on the stomach.
(from a finishing yarn) 1 item.
1p-6sc into magic ring
2p-incx6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p
6p- (4sc, inc) X6 = 36p
Break the thread.
Assembly.
Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to comb all the details. Can
Velcro, you can use a stitch.
To comb very carefully so as not to change the shape of the parts.
You can insert colored pins in the center of the tummy and in the center of the head,
so that during assembly you orient yourself and arrange the bear symmetrically.
You can immediately sew a patch on the tummy, this will also help determine
with the center of the figure of the bear.
Sew on the muzzle, be sure to add filler, but not much to
the muzzle did not stick forward, but as if protruding slightly forward. She
It is not located in the center of the head, but much down. Somewhere from row 65 (or
through 6 rows from the neck) and up.
Sew on your ears. The bear’s head is not round, and you can see from the sides there are places for
ears.
Make a little eye tightening. To do this, insert the needle behind the head at
neck and withdraw into the first eye, tighten a little bit, return, then from the neck
withdraw into the second eye and back to the neck. Tighten a little and fix the thread.
And because our eyes will be located very close to each other, you can
with one stitch to capture the entire area intended for the eyes, and a little
pull off, do not pull heavily, otherwise they may look like they failed.
In this embodiment, the eyes will be deepened evenly.
Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion. But it is better that the nose is not
small, I have a length of 2.5 cm. If there is no suitable nozzle in size,
it’s easy to make it from plastic or dump it, but you can find a button and
to cover with fabric. There are many options.
The eyes should be placed directly above the muzzle and very close to each other.
Sticks sticking out wire, insert into the body on the sides in the region of 49-50 rows,
sew on. Make sure that your hands are symmetrical.
Sew a patch on the tummy on the most convex part of the abdomen, a drop
add filler.
Embroider a smile and eyebrows. Embroider a smile in one thread so that it is
such is not very noticeable, but eyebrows are better in two strings. Embroider the same
toes and toes.
You can tint the bear a little – cheeks, eyebrows.
Cut several threads from the main yarn and string them on the crown
heads (where we closed the last loops) as we string fringe.
Cut to desired length and fluff. It will be a forelock.
A bear can be made with a felted face and a felted nose. Eyes
make of plastic. Sew on patches.
Bear is ready. And you can decorate it as you wish.
