Amigurumi Cute Deer Girl Free Crochet Pattern
Step into the whimsical world of crochet with our enchanting Amigurumi Cute Deer Girl, a delightful free crochet pattern that’s as sweet as can be. Crafted with love and a touch of magic, this amigurumi deer girl is perfect for crocheters of all skill levels. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just beginning your crochet journey, our easy-to-follow instructions will guide you through creating your very own adorable deer girl plushie. This charming project is a fantastic addition to your amigurumi collection or a heartwarming gift for someone special. Grab your crochet hook and let’s embark on a creative adventure in crochet!
Materials:
– Yarn (see page one for yarns I´ve used)
– 2,5 mm hook size or a size that fits your yarn
– 3 black 3 mm security eyes (one for the nose)
– Stuffing
– Scissors, tapestry needle, stitch marker and pins
– Felt for the eyes {instead of 3 mm eyes and felt
you can use 6 or 8 mm security eyes or embroidery
thread/yarn to sew the eyes}
Abbreviation/US terminology:
Links to some helpful videos on last page!
ch – chain
dc2tog – double crochet two together
dec – decrease
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase
inc3 – 3 sc in one stitch
inc4 – 4 sc in one stitch
rnd(s) – round(s)
sc – single crochet
sc3tog – single crochet three together
sc4tog – single crochet four together
sc5tog – single crochet five together
slst – slip stitch
st – stitch
(…) – number in parentheses
indicates the number of
stitches at the end of the round
*…* – repeat instructions x times or to
the end of the round
{…} – work the stitches all into the
same stitch
Notes:
– Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral unless otherwise stated.
– Change your yarn always in the last step of the last stitch.
– I mostly go up with a standing sc, hdc or dc instead of ch 1, ch 2 or ch 3. That looks much neater.
– Fasten off your work always with needle join and you´ll get a neat result.
– Stuff your amigurumi as you go. I use a chopstick for that!
– Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the beginning of a round.
– Deedee using the materials described is ~12.99 inches / 33 cm tall (with antlers).
I would love to see your creations! Maybe you want to share them on
Instagram using #kikalite ♥
PATTERN
Head – yarn A – stuff the head as you go
Pay attention not to confuse 3 inc (three times
increase) with inc3 (three sc in one stitch). Same
with 4 inc and inc4! Crochet the sc4tog and sc5tog
stitches as tight as you can.
If you´re going to use a piece of felt for the eyes,
prepare it now. Cut out an oval shape (∼ 1,2 x 0,9
cm) and make a little hole in the middle with a
needle (see last page). Insert the 3 mm eye into that
hole and place them in the right position between
rnd 19 and 20.
rnd stitches
1 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2 6 inc (12)
3 *1 sc, inc* 6x (18)
4 *1 sc, inc, 1 sc* 6x (24)
5 *3 sc, inc* 6x (30)
6 *2 sc, inc, 2 sc* 6x (36)
7 *inc, 5 sc* 6x (42)
8 4 sc, inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 6 sc,
inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 4 sc (50)
9 6 sc, inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 10 sc,
inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 6 sc (58)
10-15 (6 rnds) 58 sc (58)
16 22 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 22 sc (56)
17 21 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 21sc (54)
18 54 sc (54)
19 23 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 23 sc (52)
20 52 sc (52)
21 24 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 23 sc (50)
22 50 sc (50)
23 25 sc, inc4, 24 sc (53)
24 26 sc, 2 inc, 25 sc (55)
→ Insert the eye with the felt
between rnd 19 and 20. The
distance between the eyes
is 10 stitches (12 stitches distance if you don´t use felt).
25 27 sc, sc3tog, 25 sc (53)
26 26 sc, sc3tog, 24 sc (51)
27 25 sc, sc3tog, 23 sc (49)
28 23 sc, sc5tog, 21 sc (45)
→ Insert the nose between
rnd 24 and 25. You can also
sew a nose with embroidery
thread or a piece of yarn.
→ Now we do something
unusual, pay attention!
The last stitch of rnd 29, the
sc4tog, involves the first 2
stitches of rnd 30. After rnd
29 you have to move your
stitch marker to the next
stitch, this is your new
beginning! See pic below.
{The sc4tog and sc5tog
stitches have to be in the
centre, that’s why we change
for the next 3 rnds (rnd 29,
30 and 31) the beginning}.
Pay attention not to confuse
with the number in
parentheses. We count the
stitches after crocheting the
whole round!
29 dec, 2 sc, dec, 13 sc, *sc5tog*
2x, 12 sc, dec, sc4tog (31)
→ You´ll have 3 stitches un-
worked after rnd 30. Move
your stitch marker to the next
stitch, this is your new
beginning!
30 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, *sc5tog* 2x,
3 sc, dec, 2 sc (21)
→ The last stitch of rnd 31,
the sc5tog, involves the first 4
stitches of rnd 32. After rnd
31 you have to move your
stitch marker to the next
stitch, this is your new
beginning! Don´t worry, this
is the last time we change the
place of our beginning.
31 sc5tog, 15 sc, sc5tog (13)
32 6sc, dec, 5 sc (12)
33-34 (2 rnds) 12 sc (12)
→ Stuff the head and later the
neck section very firmly to
prevent the head from
flopping backward! Please
use a piece of a chopstick,
a dowel or wire to secure the
head. If the holes in the chin
area are disturbing you, take
a piece of yarn and make a
few stitches to cover/hide
them. I don´t care about
them so I left them as they
are.
Rnd 29 before the sc4tog.
The pin marks the 1
st st of
the next rnd.
The red yarn marks the
new beginning of rnd 30.
1 st st of rnd 30
⇓
⇐ sc4tog The black yarn marks the
beginning until rnd 28.
Body – yarn A – stuff the body as you go
rnd stitches
35 *1 sc, inc* 6x (18)
36 18 sc (18)
37 *1 sc, inc, 1 sc* 6x (24)
38 24 sc (24)
39 7 sc, ch 4, skip 4 stitches,
8 sc, ch 4, skip 4 stitches,
1 sc (16)
40 7 sc, 4 sc in blo of 4 ch, 8 sc,
4 sc in blo of 4 ch, 1 sc (24)
41 7 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc (26)
42 26 sc (26)
43 7 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 6 sc (28)
44 28 sc (28)
45 7 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 7 sc (30)
46-59 (14 rnds) 30 sc (30)
60 only 14 sc (to reach the side) (30)
→ Ch 1 and close the body
as seen on the pic on right
with single crochet stitches
and fasten off your work.
Arms – 2x – yarn A
rnd stitches
1 See on pic below where to
join the yarn and pay
attention not to skip the
side stitches.
*3 sc, dec* 2x, do not join,
crochet in spiral (8)
2-18 (17 rnds) 8 sc (8)
19 *2 sc, dec* 2x (6)
→ Break yarn and close the
remaining stitches.
Start here with the 1
st
sc.
After rnd 1. Crochet in spiral.
Don´t forget to insert
something to prevent the
head from flopping
backward!
The purple yarn marks the new beginning
of rnd 31.
⇑
The black yarn marks the beginning of rnd
32 and all the next rnds.
Legs – 2x – yarn A – stuff the legs as you go
rnd stitches
1 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2 6 inc (12)
3-38 (36 rnds) 12 sc (12)
→ Ch 1 and close the leg
the same way as the body
with single crochet stitches
and sew it with a whip stitch
to the body.
Antlers – 2x – yarn C – stuff the antlers
lightly as you go
rnd stitches
1 5 sc in magic ring (5)
2-6 (5 rnds) 5 sc (5)
→ Break yarn (don´t need to
fasten off your work).
Crochet two more little
antlers but don´t break
the yarn on the 3rd antler.
Join the 3rd antler with a sc
to one of the previous
antlers (counts as the first sc
of the following stitches).
7 5 sc on the 2nd antler, 5 sc
on the 3rd antler (10)
8 5 dec (5)
9-12 (4 rnds) 5 sc (5)
13 only 3 sc (to reach the side) (5)
→ Join to the last little antler
with a sc (counts as the first sc
of the following stitches).
14 5 sc on the last antler, 5 sc
on the main antler (10)
15 5 dec (5)
16-17 (2 rnds) 5 sc (5)
→ Break yarn and leave a
long tail to sew the antler
onto the head.
⇓ Back of the leg Front of the doll ⇓
Ears – 2x – yarn A
rnd stitches
1 4 sc in a magic ring (4)
2 *1 sc, inc* 2x (6)
3 *2 sc, inc* 2x (8)
4 *3 sc, inc* 2x (10)
5 *4 sc, inc* 2x (12)
6 *5 sc, inc* 2x (14)
7 *6 sc, inc* 2x (16)
8 16 sc (16)
9 *7 sc, inc* (18)
10 18 (18)
11 *8 sc, inc* (20)
12 20 sc (20)
→ Break yarn and leave a
long tail to sew the ear in
position. Flatten the ear and
make three stitches through
the layers of the ear as seen
on the pic. Use pins to hold
the ear in position and sew
it onto the head.
Rose A – yarn G
There are two different types and patterns for the
roses on Deedee’s head. I´ve used both of them for
my two girls: 2 of “Rose A” and 5 of “Rose B”.
You need seven roses in total.
Note: It´s easier if you finish off your work and
only leave on one rose a long tail to sew them all
with this one yarn tail in position.
rnd stitches
1 Ch 14, in 3rd ch from hook
{4 hdc}, slst, *{5 hdc},
slst* 5x (36)
→ Break yarn and leave a
long tail to weave in and out
through the bottom to hold
the rose together after you
curled the piece into a rose
(see pic below) and to sew it
later onto the head.
Rose B – yarn G
rnd stitches
1 Ch 12, in 3nd ch from hook
hdc, *{2 hdc}* 9x (20)
→ Break yarn and leave a
long tail to weave in and out
through the bottom to hold
the rose together after you
curled the piece into a rose
(see pic below) and to sew it
later onto the head.
Rose A ⇓
Rose B ⇑
Dress – yarn D
This part sounds a little confusing because of the
yarn changes but it isn´t if you know which colors
you use are yarn B, D and E.
Note: Instead of weaving in ends I prefer to
crochet over the yarn ends and don´t forget to
change your yarn always in the last step of your last
stitch.
rnd stitches
1 Ch 36, join to 1st ch with
a sc to form a ring (in the
back bump behind the chain,
see pic on right), 35 sc (also
in the back bump behind the
chains) (36)
→ Don´t cut the yarn.
Change to yarn E.
2 36 sc (36)
→ Don´t cut the yarn.
Change to yarn B.
3 1 sc, *change to yarn D,
1 sc, change to yarn B, 1 sc*
17x, change to yarn D, 1 sc (36)
→ Cut only yarn B and
change to yarn E.
4 36 sc (36)
→ Break yarn E.
Change to yarn D.
5-13 (9 rnds) 36 sc (36)
14 12 sc, ch 6, skip 6 sc, 12 sc,
ch 6, skip 6 sc (36)
15 12sc, 6 sc in blo of ch 6, 12
sc, 6 sc in blo of ch 6 (36)
→ Change to yarn E.
16 36 sc, join rnd in blo of 1st
stitch with a slst (36)
17 in blo {ch 2, 2 hdc},
*{3 hdc}* 35x (108)
→ Break yarn and fasten off
your work invisible.
→ Attach yarn D with a
standing sc as seen on the
pic below in the 1st stitch of
the 1st round on the back
of your dress.
18 *1 sc, inc* 18x (54)
19-31 (13 rnds) 54 sc (54)
→ Don´t cut the yarn.
Change to yarn E.
32 54 sc (54)
→ Don´t cut the yarn.
Change to yarn B.
33 1 sc, *change to yarn D,
1 sc, change to yarn B, 1 sc*
26x, change to yarn D, 1 sc (54)
→ Break yarn B and D,
change to yarn E.
34 54 sc, slst in 1st st (54)
35 *{ch 2, dc2tog, yarn over and
pull through 3 loops}, skip
two st, slst in next st* 17x,
{ch 3, dc2tog, yarn over and
pull through 3 loops}, skip
two st
→ Break yarn and fasten off
your work invisible with
needle join in 1st st.
Attach yarn for rnd 18
on the back.
Top oft the dress. Now
turn the piece.
1 st sc of rnd 18.
Front of the chains.
Back bump behind the
chain.
Booties – 2x – yarn F
rnd stitches
1 ch 7, insert hook in 2nd ch
from hook: inc, 3 sc, 1 hdc,
{6 hdc}, (don´t turn your
work, crochet on the other
side of the ch) 1 hdc, 3 sc,
inc (18)
2 inc, 6 sc, 4 inc, 6 sc, inc (24)
→ Change to yarn G.
3 in blo 24 sc (24)
4 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20)
5 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18)
6 8 sc, dec, 8 sc (17)
7 7 sc, sc3tog, 7 sc (15)
8 6 sc, sc3tog, 6 sc (13)
9-15 (7 rnds) 13 sc (13)
→ Break yarn and leave a
long tail to sew the bootie
later in position.
Stuff only the tip of the
booties and put them on
the legs. See pic below.
Details:
– You can use glue to fix the felt or if you prefer
sew it in place. I just used the eye to hold the felt in
place.
– Use a bit of blush for the cheeks of your doll.
