Amigurumi Fairy Tale Doll Crochet Free Pattern

LIST OF MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES:
• Sport Wt or DK yarn: peach or desired skin color, bright yellow, light blue, dark
blue, red, black, white
• C hook (2.5-2.75mm)
• Tools: Hemostat or tweezers for stuffing, pliers, scissors
• Polyester Fiberfill or Stuffing of choice
• 6-inch (15 cm) piece of 6mm chenille stem, white
• Two 6mm plastic eyes (preferably with plastic lock washers)
• 5″ doll needle, tapestry needle, long sewing needle
• Upholstery or other strong thread for jointing
• Watercolor pencil or makeup for shading, pink, brown, blue
• Very fine point (.25mm) marker (such as Pigma Micron), black
• One red ribbon rose, ¼” (6mm), one 1″ (2.5cm) bow, Two ½” (1.2cm) ribbon
daisies

GAGE: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all
the pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is
suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that
you complete both in one sitting.
ABBREVIATIONS: SEE LIST AT END OF PATTERN.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
ADJUSTABLE RING: Grasp the yarn between your thumb and forefinger, leaving a
tail at the beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise,
crossing the thread at the top of the finger. Insert the hook underneath the front thread
that you just crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop of the
back thread from underneath. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working end in
the left hand as if to begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches required into the
ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the stitches just made with the right hand and
tail with left (or vice versa), pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long loop and tighten
back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip first chain worked and continue
working pattern.
IMPORTANT NOTE ON STUFFING: The way that you stuff your bear can greatly
affect the quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You’ll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The bear should be stuffed
firmly so that it won’t lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to
the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.
WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the bear, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a needle. Pass the needle
through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip
close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it’s best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can’t hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.
HDC2TOG: *YOH, insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a lp**, YO and pull
through 2 lps on hook, repeat * to ** once, YO and pull through all 4 lps on hook.
DC2TOG: (YOH and insert hook into next stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull
through 2 lps on hook), repeat within ( ) once more, YO and pull through 2 loops on
hook.
——————————————————————————————————

DOLL’S HEAD:
1. Ch 2 with skin color, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join. Use a piece of contrasting
thread as a rnd marker.
2. 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in ea of next 2 sc) 9 times. (36 sc)
8 – 10. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)
11 – 12. Sc in next 15 sc, sl st loosely in next 2 st, sc in next 2 sc, sl st loosely in next 2 st,
sc in next 15 sc. (32 sc, 4 sl st)
13. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 st, sc in next 2 sc, 2
sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)
14. Sc in ea st around. (42 sc)
15. (Sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc) twice, sc2tog. (39 sc)
16. Sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc. (33 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
If using eyes with snap-on backs:
• Insert the eyes now. There is a stitch pattern on the front of the face where you made
“2 sl st, 2 sc, 2 sl st”. Place the eyes so that the pins are inserted between rnds 12 and
13, putting the first eye into the 1st slip stitch of the first group of 2 slip stitches, and the
second eye into the 2nd slip stitch of the second group(in other words, use the outside sl
st’s). The bottom edge of the eyes should touch the top edge of rnd 13. Insert the eye pin
between stitches, then reach inside the head and firmly push the metal or plastic lock
washer onto the eye pin.
• If you are using eyes that fasten with metal lock washers, they may show through the
stitches of the face. I recommend cutting a circle from either white or skin-colored
fabric, larger than the metal circle, with a hole cut in the center that is large enough to
get the eye pin through. Pull this circle onto the eye pin and against the fabric of the
face, then push the metal lock washer onto the pin.
• If you have an eye placement disaster, you can pull out the stitches all the way back to
the stitch just after the last eye you come to. The eyes will come out with the stitches as
you get to them, and you can begin crocheting again from this point. You won’t be able
to use these eyes again, however.
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times.
(24 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times,
sc2tog. (16 sc)
• Stuff Head. Fill out each cheek separately, then add some stuffing to the chin area for
definition.
21. Sc in next 2 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times. (8 sc)

NECK AND BODY:
1. Sc in ea sc around. (8 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
5 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around, sc in next 6 sc into the next rnd; FO with sl st in next sc. (27 sc)
• Fold the chenille stem in half, and twist the two halves around on each other. Fold the
ends up so that no sharp ends will be exposed. Insert the chenille stem up into the doll’s
head so that it sits inside the neck to provide stability to the head.
• Stuff neck around chenille stem.
8. Join med blue with sc in next sc after sl st, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, 2 hdc in ea of next 3
sc, (hdc, sc) in next sc, sl st next 2 sc tog [(insert hook into next stitch, yo and pull up a
loop) twice, YOH and pull through all 3 loops on hook], (sc, hdc) in next sc, 2 hdc in ea
of next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, ignore next sl st and sc in same sc on previous rnd in
which sl st was made. (17 sc, sl st, 14 hdc)
9. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, hdc in next 7 hdc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sl st, sc in next sc,
hdc in next 7 hdc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc; do not join, pl rnd marker to commence
working in rnds. (15 sc, sl st, 14 hdc)
10. Sc in next 7 st, hdc in next 7 st, sc in next st, sl st in next st, sc in next sc, hdc in next
7 sc, sc in next 6 st. (15 sc, sl st, 14 hdc)
11. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (does not change stitch count), sc in
next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, hdc2tog 3 times (hdc2tog: *YOH, insert hook into
next st, YO and pull up a lp**, YO and pull through 2 lps on hook, repeat * to **
once, YO and pull through all 4 lps on hook), sc in next sc, sl st in next sl st, sc in next
sc, hdc2tog 3 times, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (15 sc, sl st, 6 hdc)
• Stuff shoulder area.
12. Sc in next 6 sc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in next sc, sk next sl st, sc in next sc, hdc in next
3 hdc, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc, 6 hdc)
13. Sc in ea sc around. (21 sc)
• Fill out bust with stuffing.
14 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (21 sc)
16. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in next sc. (18 sc)
17. Sc2tog, sc in ea rem sc around. (17 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (17 sc)
• Finish stuffing the upper body.
19. 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 st. (29 sc)
20. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, (2 sc in next sc,
sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc; join with sl st in next sc, FO. (35 sc)
21. Working in BL, join white with sc in next sc after sl st, sc in ea sc around to sl st, sk
sl st, sc in BL of same sc as 1st sc; do not join. (36 sc)
22 – 24. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)
25. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
26. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
27. (Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) 6 times. (18 sc)
• Continue stuffing.
28. (Sc in next sc, sc2tog) 6 times. (12 sc)
• Finish stuffing.
29. (Sc2tog) 6 times; FO. (6 sc)
• Add stuffing if needed. Close bottom by sewing a row of gathering stitches in and out
around the FL of the last rnd. Pull to close; secure and hide end inside body.
FACIAL FEATURES
Optional: Needle sculpt eye sockets (if eyes with snap-on backs were used):
• Thread the doll needle with a length of yarn in the same color as the doll; knot the end.
Insert the needle into the bottom of the back of the head (always between stitches, so that
you don’t catch any fabric and create indentations) and * bring it out just above row 13,
at the outer bottom edge of the first eye. Pull knot inside head. Insert the needle back
into the face at the bottom inner edge of the first eye, push out back of head and pull to
indent. Insert needle back in exact place and out at upper inner edge of eye, then back
into face one stitch below, and out back of head. Pull to indent.** Insert needle back
into exact place and repeat * to ** for the second eye. Finally, run the threaded needle
through the back of the head a couple of times to secure. Pull yarn taut and clip close to
surface so that it disappears inside the head.
If you are using sew-on eyes: Use pins to locate the eye positions. Suggested
placement: Find the series of stitching in the center of the face where you made 2 slip
stitches, 2 sc, then 2 more slip stitches. Place an eye in each of the outermost slip stitches
on rnd 12. Sew the eyes on with black nylon or sewing thread. Begin by threading your
beading needle with the black thread. Insert through bead. Remove thread from beading
needle, making sure that the thread doesn’t come out of the bead, and insert both ends of
thread onto a sewing needle. You may run into a bead that you can’t even get a beading
needle through. If that happens, remove the thread from the needle, and insert the thread
directly through the bead hole.
Insert the needle into the first eye location, through the head, and out the
back (Always take the needle in or out between stitches. If you catch a
strand of the fabric, you could end up with an ugly indentation.). Pull
gently but firmly on the thread to imbed the eye into the face. Keeping
the thread as taut as you can so as not to allow the eye to loosen, tie off
the ends with a surgeon’s knot (see illustration at right), then thread the
ends onto the needle and insert back into the head in the same place
where the knot is; bring out elsewhere on the back of the head. Clip
ends close to the surface so that they disappear inside the head. Repeat
for the second eye.

Using 4 strands of black embroidery floss, embroider a straight stitch above each eye for
eyebrows.
Nose:
1. With same thread or yarn as head ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch; do not
ch 1, turn right to left. (3 sc)
2. Sk 1st sc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc; FO, leaving long end.
• Row 2 is the top of the nose. Using the long end, sew the nose to the center of the face
between the eyes.
Mouth:
Using 1 strand of yarn red yarn, embroider a horizontal straight stitch 1 rnd beneath the
nose. The stitch should be about 7 sc wide, centered under the nose, and should follow
the groove between rounds. Make another stitch in the same place, on top of the first
(this is the upper lip). Insert the needle back into the face at the other edge of the upper
lip from where the thread now is, and then back out the opposite edge, holding the bottom
lip thread against the face, letting it arc downward in the shape of a smile. This time
when you insert the needle back into the edge of the mouth, bring it out one sc below the
upper lip, in the center of the lip, and catch the lower lip stitch underneath the needle as it
comes out. As you pull the needle out, the thread will be above the lower lip. Insert the
needle just under the bottom lip thread to the right of where it came out of the face,
taking the yarn around, under, and back up over the bottom lip thread. Wrap the thread 6
times around the lower lip in this manner on this side of the center anchoring stitch, and
then insert the needle into the corner of the mouth, bringing it out once again at the
bottom center of the lower lip, then repeat the wrapping process for the other side of the
lower lip, and finish by inserting the needle into this corner of the mouth, and out the
back of the head. This will give the appearance of a thicker lower lip. Embroider 2
straight white lines inside the upper and lower lips, one just under the upper lip, and one
just above the lower lip, to suggest teeth. Sculpt corners of mouth: Thread a needle of
the appropriate size with strong thread similar in color to the skin; knot the end. Insert
the needle into the head behind the ear, and out behind the opposite ear; gently but firmly
pull to bring the knot inside the head. Run the thread through the head two or three times
to secure, then bring needle out of face just above a corner of the mouth. Insert the needle
back into the face just below the exit point, and back out behind the ear; pull to indent,
then repeat the process on the other side of the mouth, keeping the thread taut. Always
insert the needle and bring it out between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric.
Left Ear:
1. Ch 2 with skin color, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sl st in last sc; FO, leaving long
end for sewing. (10 sc, sl st)
Right Ear:
1. Ch 2 with skin color, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; turn piece right to left. (8 sc)
2. Sl st in 1st sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; FO, leaving long
end for sewing. (10 sc, sl st)
• Pin ears to sides of head, with inside center of ears at about the level of the eyes.
• If making the curly wig, you will sew the ears on later, after the hair is complete, so
that you can coordinate the positioning of the ears with the hair.
• If using the fringe method to create the hair, go ahead and sew the ears on.
WIG
Wig Cap: (Work all stitches in BL
11. (RS is the side with rows of free lps showing.) With RS facing and working in BL,
sk 5 sc, join with sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in
next sc (do not work remaining 5 sc); ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
12. Working in FL, sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
13. Working in BL, sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
14. Working in FL, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
15. Working in BL, sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
16. Working in FL, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog; FO, leaving long end. (11 sc)
• Position the wig cap on the head to determine whether your ears are placed correctly.
Adjust the ears as needed, then remove wig and sew ears in place.
• Pin the wig cap in place on the head, matching the center top of the wig to the center
top of the head and arranging around the ears. Using the long end, sew the wig cap in
place all around the edges.

Hair: You don’t necessarily have to have the same number of loops that are called for
here, or even follow the same pattern of loops that I have done. You can make more
loops, or fewer loops, as long as you cover the cap with “hair.”
1. With back of head facing you with doll upside down and working in FL, join hair
color with sc in 1st sc on row 16 of wig cap, (ch 12, sl st in same pl, sc in next sc) across;
ch 12, sl st in same pl as last sc; ch 12, turn. (12 ch-12 lps, including turning ch)
2. Sc in 1st free lp on row 15, (ch 12, sl st in same pl, sc in next free lp) across; ch 12,
turn. (12 ch-12 lps)
3. Sk row 14, sc in 1st free lp on row 13; (ch 12, sl st in same pl as last sc, sc in next 2
free lps) 7 times across, ch 12, sl st in same pl as last sc; ch 12, turn. (9 ch-12 lps)
4. Sc in 1st free lp on row 12, (ch 12, sl st in same pl, sc in next free lp) across; ch 12,
turn, sl st in end of row; FO. (14 ch-12 lps)
5. Sk row 11, holding doll with top facing downward, join with sc in FL of 1st
sc on row
10; (ch 12, sl st in same pl, sc in next sc) 5 times, ch 12, sl st in same pl, (sc in next 2 free
lps, ch 12, sl st in same pl as last sc) 7 times, sc in next free lp, sc in FL of next sc, ch 12,
sl st in same pl as last sc, (sc in FL of next sc, ch 12, sl st in same pl) 5 times, ch 12, sc in
end of row 9; ch 12, turn. (21 ch-12 lps)
6. Sk row 9, sc in 1st free lp of rnd 8, (ch 12, sl st in same pl, sc in next 2 free lps) 14
times, sc in next free lp, ch 12, sl st in same pl as last sc; ch 12, sc in FL of sc directly
above the last st, in row 8; ch 7, do not turn. (16 ch-12 lps, ch 7)
7. Working in FL of sc across rnd 7 of front (forehead), sc in 1st sc, (ch 7, sl st in same pl
as sc, sc in next sc) 11 times, (ch 12, sl st in same pl, sc in next 2 free lps) 12 times,
continue across forehead and (ch 9, sl st in same pl, sc in next free lp) 11 times, ch 12; do
not turn. (13 ch-12 lps, 11 ch-9 lps, 12 ch-7 lps)
8. Sc in the free lp on rnd 4 that is directly above the last sc made; (ch 12, sl st in same
pl, sc in next 2 free lps) 16 times, ch 12, do not turn. (17 ch-12 lps)
9. Sk up to next rnd and sc in the free lp directly above the last sc made, (ch 12, sl st in
same pl, sc in next free lp) 23 times, or until last free lp at center of top has been worked
in, sc in next free lp, ch 12, sl st in same pl, (ch 12, sc around center rnd) twice; FO. (24
ch-12 lps)
• Hide end by threading it onto the tapestry needle and pulling it inside the head.
LEGS: (MAKE 2)
1. Ch 7 with black, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch, moving
around to work on opposite side of ch, 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 4 free lps, 2 sc in last
free lp; do not join, place rnd marker. (16 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(24 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc
in next 8 sc. (29 sc)
4. Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times,
2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc; FO with sl st in next sc. (35
sc)
5. Working in BL with RS facing, join red with sc in next sc after sl st, sc in ea st
around; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1, do not turn. (35 sc)
6. Working in both lps, sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st
sc; ch 1, do not turn. (38 sc)
7. Sc in same pl as joining, and in next 10 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in
next 10 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (30 sc)
8. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 7 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in
next 8 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1, do not turn. (25 sc)
9. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc;
join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (23 sc)
10. Working in BL with RS facing, join skin color with sc in same pl as joining, sc in ea
sc around; do not join, resume working in rounds, place rnd marker. (23 sc)
11. Sc in next 4 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) twice, sc2tog twice, (sc in next sc, sc2tog)
twice, sc in next 3 sc. (17 sc)
12. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (does not change stitch count), sc in
next 3 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc. (13 sc)
• Stuff foot.
13. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc. (12 sc)
14. Sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in last sc. (13 sc)
15. Sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc. (14 sc)
• Continue to add stuffing after every few rnds.
16 – 17. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
18. Sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in last sc. (15 sc)
19 – 22. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
23. 2 sc in next sc, sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
24. Sc2tog twice, sc in next 10, sc2tog. (13 sc)
25. Sc in next 11 sc, sl st loosely in next 2 sc. (2 sl st, 11 sc)
26. Sl st loosely in next 2 sc, sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in st. (2 sl st, 12 sc)
27. 2 sc in ea of next 3 st, sc in next 11 sc. (17 sc)
28 – 32. Sc in ea sc around. (17 sc)
33. Sc in next sc, sc2tog (should be at the center of the back of the leg), sc in next 7 sc,
sc2tog (center front), sc in next 5 sc. (14 sc)
34. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (14 sc)
35. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3; FO with sl st in next sc,
leaving long end for sewing. (12 sc)
• Finish stuffing. Thread end on needle, then close the opening
with a ladder stitch (see illustration at right), with the seam
running front-to-back (the leg is wider front-to-back than it is
side-to-side). Insert the needle into the top of leg and bring out elsewhere on leg. Pull
thread taut and clip close to leg so that the end disappears inside.
• If there is white stuffing showing through the black shoe thread, you can use a black
marker with a dabbing motion to color it black.
Shoe Strap: Thread a needle with the same black thread used for the shoes and knot the
end. Insert the needle into the bottom of the foot and bring out just above the last rnd of
black, and just behind the front edge of the leg. Tug gently to pull the knot inside the
shoe. Pass the thread across the top of the foot, and insert the needle back into the shoe
in the same place on the other side of the shoe. Bring the needle out the bottom of the
shoe, and pull the thread until it lies snugly across the foot, so that the shoe resembles a
maryjane. Pass the needle through the foot a time or two to secure the thread. Repeat for
the other shoe. If desired, sew a small button or a bead to the shoe on the outside, just
below the strap.
• Finish stuffing. Thread end on needle, then close the opening with a ladder stitch (see
illustration at right), with the seam running front-to-back (the leg is wider front-to-back
than it is side-to-side). Insert the needle into the top of leg and bring out elsewhere on
leg. Pull thread taut and clip close to leg so that the end disappears inside.
Attach Legs: Pinch the bottom 5 rnds of the dolls body into a V shape (looking at the
front view). Use pins inserted through the tops of the legs to help you locate the desired
position. The top edge of the leg should just touch to top of the V shape so that the legs
appear to be in their “sockets.” If you don’t want the legs to be movable, sew in place.
For movable legs: Thread needle with a length of upholstery thread for largest doll, or
nylon other strong thread for smaller dolls, doubled but not knotted. Insert needle into
the 1st hip and push through to opposite side, leaving a tail protruding from body. *Insert
needle back into hip one row below, push through body, and out one row below the
beginning tail. Put the needle back into the exact place from which the tail protrudes,
push back through body, and out same place as top of opposite joint stitch. Insert needle
into inner leg and through to outer side, and then turn and insert the needle back into the
leg in the same place where it came out, push it back through the leg, dipping down
inside the leg to grab some stuffing, and bring it out the same place on the inside of the
leg. Insert the needle back into the body in the same place where it came out, through the
body, and out** the upper point of joint stitch on the opposite side. Repeat * to ** for
2nd leg. Pull the thread to force the legs against the body. If the legs are still loose, go
back through each leg once more, then on the final pass, bring the needle out just in front
of the opposite leg. Pull the thread again to bring the legs in close against the body. Cut
thread, leaving a tail. Tie off the ending tail with a surgeon’s knot, then thread the ends
on a needle and run through the body to hide the ends. Clip loose thread ends.
Skirt: Note: Beg ch-3 counts as dc unless otherwise stated.
1. Ch 31 with yellow, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, (2 dc in next ch, 3 dc in next ch) across
to last ch, 2 dc in last ch; ch 3, turn. (70 dc)
2. Dc in next dc and in ea st across; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (70 dc)
3. Working in BL, dc in same pl as turning ch, (dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc) across to
last 3 dc, dc in last 3 dc; ch 3, turn. (87 dc)
4. Dc in next dc and in ea dc across; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (87 dc)
5. Working in BL, dc in next dc and in ea dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch
3, turn. (87 dc)
6. Repeat row 4.
7. Working in BL, dc in same pl as joining, (dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc) across to
last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (100 dc)
8. Dc in next dc and in ea dc across; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (100
dc)
9. Working in BL, dc in next dc and in ea dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch
3, turn. (100 dc)
10. Dc in same pl as joining, (dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc) around to last 2 dc, dc in
next 2 dc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (114 dc)
11. Working in BL, dc in ea dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn.
12. Dc in next dc and in ea dc across; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (114
dc)
13. Working in BL, dc in same pl as joining, (dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc) around to
last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (129 dc)
14. Sc in same dc as joining and in ea dc around; join with sl st in 1st sc; join with sl st in
top of beg ch-3, ch 3, turn. (129 dc)
15. Working in BL, dc in same pl as joining, (dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc) around to
last dc, dc in last dc; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, do not turn. (143 dc)
16. Dc in ea dc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (143 dc)
Lace Rows (optional):
The lace rows are worked in the free loops remaining from working every other row of
the skirt in the BL.
1. Working in the 1st row of free loops with bottom of skirt facing you, join yellow with
sc in 1st free lp at skirt edge, (ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in next free lp, ch 1, sk next lp, sc
in next free lp) around; FO with sl st in same pl as last sc. (17 5-dc shells)
2. Working in the free lps two rows down from the first lace row with bottom of skirt
facing you, join yellow with sl st in 1st free lp at back edge of skirt, ch 3, 4 dc in same pl,
ch 1, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp, (ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in next free lp, ch 1, sk
next lp, sc in next free lp) around to last 2 free lps, ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in last free
lp, sl st in same pl with last 5-dc shell; FO. (22 5-dc shells)
3. Working in the free lps two rows down from the last lace row with bottom of skirt
facing you, join with sc in 1st free lp at center back of skirt, (ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in
next free lp, ch 1, sk next lp, sc in next free lp) around to last 3 free lps, ch 1, sk next free
lp, 5 dc in next free lp, ch 1; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (22 5-dc shells)
4. Skip down two more rows and join with sl in 1st free lp, ch 3, 4 dc in same free lp, (ch
1, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp, ch 1, (sk next free lp, 5 dc in next free lp, ch 1, sc in
next free lp, ch 1) around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, FO. (25 5-dc shells)
5. Skip down two more rows and join with sc in 1st free lp, ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in
next free lp, ch 1, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp, (ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in next free
lp, ch 1, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp) 28 times around to last 2 free lps, ch 1, 5 dc in
next free lp, ch 1, sk last free lp; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, FO. (29 5-dc shells)
6. Skip down two more rows and join with sl in 1st free lp, ch 3, 4 dc in same free lp, (ch
1, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp, ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in next free lp) around to
last 5 free lps, ch 1, sc in next free lp, ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in next free lp, ch 1, sc in
next free lp, ch 1, sk next free lp; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, FO. (29 5-dc shells)
7. Skip down two more rows and join with sl in 1st free lp, ch 3, 4 dc in same free lp, (ch
1, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp, ch 1, sk next free lp, 5 dc in next free lp) around to
last free lp, ch 1, sc in next free lp, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, FO. (33 5-dc
shells)
8. Working in BL on the WS of the last row at bottom of skirt, join yellow with sl st in
1st dc, ch 3, 4 dc in same pl, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, (ch 1, sk next dc, 5 dc in next
dc, ch 1, sk next lp, sc in next dc) around to last 3 dc, ch 1, 5 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next
dc, sc in next dc; ch 1, join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, FO. (36 5-dc shells)
9. Holding skirt with RS facing, and with bottom toward you, join white with sl st in the
free lp behind the 1st sc on row 8 at center back; ch 3, 2 dc in same pl, ch 1, sk next free
lp, sc in next free lp (the shells should be behind the sc’s, and the sc’s should be behind
the shells, so that the row 9 shells show between the row 8 shells), (ch 1, sk next free lp, 5
dc in next free lp, ch 1, sk next free lp, sc in next free lp) around to last free lp, ch 1, sc in
next free lp, ch 1, 2 dc in same pl with beg ch-3; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 1,
do not turn. (36 5-dc shells)
10. Working in BL, ch 2, sk next dc, sl st in next dc, [ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, sl st in next
sc, ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc, (ch 2, sk next dc, sl st in next dc) twice], repeat
within [ ] around, end with ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, sl st in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, sl
st in next dc, ch 2, sk next dc; join with sl st in same pl with beg ch-2, FO.
Waist: With RS facing and leaving a long tail at the beginning (to use to sew the back
opening), join yellow with sc in 1st free lp at back edge of waist, sc in next 6 free lps,
sc2tog, sc in next 11 free lps, sc2tog, sc in next 7 free lps; FO, leaving long end for
sewing skirt to doll. (26 sc)
Waist Trim:
1. Ch 30, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, (sc in next ch, 3 dc in next ch) 6 times, sc3tog, ch 3,
sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sc in same pl as last sc, (3 dc in next ch, sc in next ch) 6 times, sl
st in last ch; FO. (
• Put the skirt on the doll with the opening in the back. Sew the back opening together.
• Pin the waist of the skirt over the 1st rnd of white below the doll’s waist, with the top
edge against the last rnd of blue. Sew the skirt to the body with a back stitch, keeping it
even all around.
Front Bodice Trim:
1. Ch 11 with white, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 dc in same pl, sc in next 2
ch, 3 dc in same pl as last sc, sc2tog over next 2 ch, ch 3, sl st in same 3rd ch from hook,
sc in same pl as last sc, 3 dc in next ch, sc in same pl, sc in next ch, 3 dc in next ch, sc in
same pl, sl st in last ch; FO, leaving long end for sewing trim to bodice. (4 shells, one
center ch-3 picot)
• Pin trim to front of bodice RS out, with picot centered in front at the top edge of the
bodice and pointing downward. Pin each end of the piece to the body above the level of
the top edge of the bodice, so that a slight V-shape is formed. Sew in place.
Back Bodice Trim:
1. Ch 7 with white; FO, leaving long end. Pin trim to back of bodice across the top edge
of back. You may need to raise one end a little bit above the top edge of the bodice to
make it look even. Sew in place.
Left Arm:
1. Ch 5 with skin color, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in next ch, moving to
opposite side of chain, sc in next 3 free lps, 2 sc in last free lp; do not join, place rnd
marker. (10 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc) You may need to turn the piece right side out.
3. (Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (12 sc)
4 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
6. Sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog. (11 sc)
7. Ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (8 sc, 2 ch)
8. Sc in BL of next 2 ch, sc in next 8 sc. (10 sc)
• Stuff hand. Continue to add more stuffing after every few rnds.
9. Sl st loosely in next 5 sc, sc in next 5 sc.
10. 2 sc in next sl st, sc in next 4 sl st, sc in next 5 sc. (11 sc)
11 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (11 sc)
17. Sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 7 sc. (4 sl st, 7 sc)
18. Sc in next 2 sl st, 2 sc in next sl st, sc in next sl st and in ea rem sc around. (12 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
20. Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc. (13 sc)
21. Working in BL, sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
22 – 23. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
24. Sc in next 3 sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (does not change st count), sc2tog,
sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (11 sc)
25. Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc; FO, leaving long end. (9 sc )
• Finish stuffing and firm up top of arm.
• Thread end on needle, then close the opening with a ladder stitch or an oversew stitch.
Insert the needle into the top of arm out elsewhere on arm, pulling thread taut. Pull on
thread firmly and clip close to arm so that thread disappears inside.
Thumb:
1. Beginning with tip of hand toward you, join skin color with sc in 1st sc of thumb
opening, sc in next sc, turn corner and sc in row end bet top and bottom of thumb
opening, turn corner and sc in next 2 free lps, turn corner and sc in row end bet top and
bottom of thumb opening, do not join. (6 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)
3. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing end of
thumb. (4 sc, sl st)
• Sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the outer lps at end of thumb, pull gently
to close the thumb opening; FO, hide end by inserting needle into center top and pulling
thread inside of thumb.
Sleeve Cap: Turning ch-3 counts as 1st dc.
DC2TOG: (YOH and insert hook into next stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull
through 2 lps on hook), repeat within ( ) once more, YO and pull through 2 loops on
hook.
1. With the hand toward you, find the free lps made from working rnd 21 in BL.
Leaving the 3 free lps at the center of the inner side of the arm unworked, join light blue
with sc, sc in same pl, 2 sc in ea of next 9 free lps; ch 3, turn. (20 sc)
2. Dc in same pl as turning, (dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc) 9 times, dc in last sc; ch 3,
turn. (30 dc)
3 – 4. Dc in next dc and in ea dc around; ch 3, turn. (30 sc)
5. Dc2tog 14 times, dc in last dc; ch 3, turn. (16 dc)
6. Dc2tog 7 times, dc in last dc; FO, leaving a long end. (9 sc)
Sleeve Band:
1. Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, (2 dc in next ch, sc in next ch) 7 times; FO, leaving
long end.
• Beginning at the center unworked free loop on the inner side of the arm, pin the band to
the arm around, having the top edge of the band (the foundation chain edge) directly
below and touching the bottom edge of the sleeve cap. Sew band in place, using a
backstitch and sewing just inside the edge of the foundation chain.
Right Arm:
1 – 5. Repeat 1 – 5 of left arm.
6. Sc in next 11 sc, remove rnd marker, sc2tog, replace rnd marker after last st made.
(12 sc showing)
7. Sc in next 2 sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (8 sc, 2 ch)
8. Sc in next 2 sc, sc in BL of next 2 ch, sc in next 6 sc. (10 sc)
• Stuff hand. Continue to add more stuffing after every few rnds.
9. Sl st loosely in next 5 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (5 sl st, 6 sc)
10 – 16. Sc in ea st around. (11 sc)
17. Sc in next 4 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (4 sl st, 7 sc)
18. Sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 2 sl st, 2 sc in next sl st, sc in next sl st, sc in next 3 sc. (12
sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
20. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc. (13 sc)
21. Working in BL, sc around. (13 sc)
22 – 23. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
24. Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc; FO, leaving long end. (11 sc )
25. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc; FO, leaving long end. (9 sc )
• Add more stuffing if necessary to firm up top of arm.
• Make thumb and finish same as for left arm.
Sleeve Cap:
Work same as for left arm.
Attach arms:
Push the sleeve cap down out of the way. Use long pins to help find the correct location
of the arms on each side. Start with a 36-inch length of upholstery or other very strong
thread. Thread it onto a 5-inch doll needle, doubled, but do not knot the ends. Insert
needle into shoulder area, and push through body and out the same place on the opposite
side; leave a 3-inch tail of thread protruding from first side. Insert the needle back into
the body 1 rnd below the exit point, push through body, and bring out 1 rnd below the
protruding tail. Go back into the body in the exact place where the tail is, through the
body, and back out on the other side in the same place as the upper point of the joint.
Insert the needle into the first arm between the 2nd and 3rd rnd from the top, making sure
that you have the thumb pointing upward! * Insert the needle back into the same place,
dip needle down and back up to catch some stuffing to anchor the thread, then back out
arm in same place as entry.* Go back into body in same place, through body and back
out opposite side in same place, pull thread to force 1st arm against body, then insert
needle into 2nd arm. Repeat * to * for 2nd arm. Insert the needle back into the same place,
push back through to opposite side of body, and back out behind the arm (or if arms still
feel loose, make another pass through one or both arms). Cut thread, leaving a 3-inch
tail. Pull firmly to force the arms tightly against the body. Make sure arms are snug
against body, then tie off both sets of tails, using a surgeon’s knot. Thread the ends onto
a needle, and pull through the body to hide ends; clip close to body.
Finish Sleeves:
Thread the long end remaining at the top of the sleeve cap onto a needle, and insert into
the 1st stitch of row 6; pull to form a ring at the top of the sleeve cap. Sew a row of
gathering stitches in and out of the outer lps of row 6. Pull firmly but gently to gather
and close the top of the sleeve cap. Push the center top of the sleeve cap down against
the center of the top of the arm, and sew in place with a couple of stitches, then insert the
needle down through the center of the cap, then into the top of the arm, bringing it out of
the arm below the cap. Insert the needle back into the same place, through the arm, and
out on the opposite side. Repeat once more to anchor and secure the thread. Pull the
thread taut and trim close to arm so that it disappears inside. Curl the edges of the sleeve
to the inside, and arrange as in photo.
Hair Bow:
1. Ch 3 with red, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
4. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
5 – 7. Sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
8. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
9. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
10. Sc2tog twice; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
11. Fold the piece so that rows 1 and 10 are together; sc in the 1st free loop of the
foundation ch from row 1, and the next sc on row 10 and at the same time, so that the
beginning and ending rows are joined; sc in the next free loop and sc at the same time; ch
1, turn. (2 sc)
12. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
13 – 20. Repeat rows 2 – 9.
21. Sc2tog twice; FO, leaving long end.
• Fold the piece so that rows 12 and 21 are together; use the long end to sew in place.
Center:
1. With bow color ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 5. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. At the end of row 5 do not ch 1, FO, leaving long end.
• Wrap the center piece around the middle part of the bow; sew ends together at the back
of the bow; make one stitch through to the front, then back out the back, to secure center
to bow.
• Sew bow to doll’s head.
Finishing Touches:
Earrings: Cut the green ribbon leaves off of 2 ribbon daisies. Sew a red bead to the
center of each daisy, then sew a flower to each ear lobe.
Shading:
Shade the cheeks with pink pencil or makeup blush, shade lightly inside the ears. Use a
light blue pencil or eye shadow to shade the area just above each eye, between the top of
the eye and the eyebrow. Next, use a brown pencil to shade a small area all around the
doll’s eyes. If you are feeling artistic, use the very fine black marker to outline the eyes,
and then very lightly draw 5 to 7 lashes radiating out from each eye.
Gown Embellishment: Sew or glue the smaller red ribbon rose to the top edge of the
center front of the bodice, and sew the larger ribbon rose to the lower edge of the bodice
where it meets the skirt.